Rock Climbing on Portland

The coastline of Dorset provides one of the most varied climbing areas in the whole of lowland Britain with the Isle of Portland being one of the most popular sport rock climbing venues in the South West.

If you are new to the area and thinking of Rock Climbing in Weymouth and Portland you will find over 900 routes, to suit varying abilities, and along with spectacular views of the Jurassic Coastline it make this an unforgettable experience for rock climbing enthusiasts.

One of the Best Rock Climbing areas in Dorset

Portland is justifiably famous for the wealth of quality rock climbing available on its lofty white cliffs and is one of the best venues for well-bolted sport routes, bouldering and deep water soloing across the grades.

The World Heritage limestone cliffs of Portland are fortunate in not having too many overhangs making it a popular location for climbers in the UK. The majority of the climbs are steep but suit most abilities from lower grades right through to plenty of E grade climbs, many of which are bolted with good stainless resin anchors.

Popular Weymouth & Portland Rock Climbing Rocks

Rockfax is a world rock climbing information website that has a graded list of routes for each climb in the Weymouth & Portland area. Each route is shown as high in the grade (red), average, or low in the grade (green), based on thousands of votes by ROCKFAX users.

Here are a few routes that are worth mentioning:-

The Cuttings is an excellent and popular inland crag with a fine aspect looking out towards the Purbecks across Weymouth Bay. The crag is an old railway cutting that has left several contrasting walls rising directly from a flat clear base, and offers climbing on good clean vertical rock. The majority of lines link up numerous features giving routes that need lots of finger strength and tenacity.

The Cuttings has routes to suit all grades of climber from 2 to 8a. There is also a beginner’s wall set up for groups and individuals to cut their teeth on, which has an array of short bolted easy routes.

Blacknor North is justifiably one of the most popular areas on the Isle with towering lines in abundance on some of the most amazing flowstone formations you will see anywhere. It is home to the classic Reptile Smile and Slings Shot.

The Blacknor North is often busy at weekends and bank holidays.

Wallsend is the largest and arguably best cliff on Portland. The Wallsend North consists of a series of small bays and walls perched above the sea.

Due to its important nature conservation value, Portland’s World Heritage coastline is a designated Special Site of Scientific Interest (SSSI) and is also a European Special Area of Conservation (SAC). To help protect this important coastal environment, climbers, conservation organisations and the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) have agreed seasonal restrictions and sanctuary areas.

Areas where restrictions are found are marked with circular disks attached to bolts at the boundary points of the restricted areas. The first bolts of each climb in the restricted areas are also tagged to help climbers identify the restricted areas.

Rock Climbing Tuition

Rock Climbing - nothing like an adrenhaline rush

If you are interested in learning to rock climb or improving your rock climbing skills, courses and tuition for both young people and adults are available from Weymouth Outdoor Education Centre. Give us a mention if you decide to give rock climbing a try after reading this article!

You can start with a taster session to find out what the activity is like. Adult sessions include instruction on how to use a guidebook, setting up a top rope and general climbing skills and techniques. These sessions take place each Tuesday between 6.30pm - 9.30pm from 20 April to 24 August and cost £15.00 per session.

There are also rock climbing courses for young people aged 8 - 16 years in the school holidays. Taster sessions are £14 and a course is £65. Those who have completed the beginners climbing course and aged 10+ are eligible to join the Climbing club.

Key Points to Remember

Do familiarise yourself with the seasonal bird nesting restrictions before climbing  and avoid climbing in the sanctuary/restricted areas, such as those found at the East and West Weares or below the MOD compound at Portland Bill. Avoid walking under, leaving equipment or swimming close, to restricted areas to help prevent distress for nesting or feeding birds.

To protect fragile cliff top flora avoid abseiling over the cliff top wherever possible.

• For your own safety please do not try and climb active “working” quarries on Portland.
• Take all your litter with you when you leave.

Parking

Many of the popular climbing areas on Portland are close to residential areas. Church Ope car park, opposite Portland Museum, provides free parking for “The Cuttings” area, Cheyne Weares car park, found to the north of Southwell, provides free parking for visitors to the Neddyfields and Godnor areas.

If your are thinking of Rock Climbing in Weymouth and Portland please visit The Outdoor Store in Weymouth where we would be delighted to help equip you for your outdoor adventures with a range of quality affordable clothing, boots, waterproofs, binoculars, guide books and maps.

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